Diagnosing the Noise Type
The type of noise your washing machine makes during spin is the most useful clue to the underlying fault. Here is a quick guide:
| Noise description | Most likely cause |
|---|---|
| Deep rumbling or grinding on spin | Drum bearings failing |
| Loud banging or knocking | Foreign object in drum/pump, or loose item in load |
| Squealing or squeaking | Drive belt worn or misaligned |
| Rhythmic banging on fast spin | Machine not level, or shock absorber worn |
| Rattling or vibration | Transit bolts not removed, loose item, worn drum paddle |
Drum Bearing Failure (The Most Common Cause)
If your machine makes a deep, loud rumbling or grinding noise during the spin cycle — and the noise has been gradually getting louder over several months — the drum bearings are almost certainly failing. The rear drum bearing supports the drum shaft, and as it wears, the noise increases. You may also notice the drum has more movement than normal when you rotate it by hand.
Drum bearing replacement is the most labour-intensive common washing machine repair. The drum needs to be largely disassembled to access the bearings. Typical cost is £100–£190 including parts and labour. It is worth doing if the machine is under 8 years old and otherwise in good condition.
Checking for a Simple Cause First
Before calling an engineer, check: (1) the drum is empty and no coins, underwire, or small items are loose in it; (2) the machine is level — all four feet should contact the floor firmly; (3) if the machine is new or has recently been moved, the transit bolts have been removed.
Shock Absorbers and Counterweights
Excessive vibration — where the machine physically moves across the floor during spin — can be caused by worn shock absorbers or loosened counterweights. Shock absorber replacement is a relatively inexpensive repair (£80–£120). Counterweight bolts can work loose over time and are a quick fix for any engineer.